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We want to hear from you! Ask us any questions and we'll get answers from the vast experience of our quality designers and fellow hobbyists who may run into the same issues. Let's help each other learn beginning, intermmediate and advanced embroidery and sewing techniques - any and all questions are welcome! |
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Question 1-Metallic Thread submitted by Jane:
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"I am sewing a few designs that would look good in a metallic thread. The ones I have jam the machine. The stitching must be too dense, but even the lighter designs cause my machine to bog down. The bobbin area is always a mess. I slowed the machine to a low speed. I did not adjust the tension.What metallic thread brand does not cause so many problems? Is there any on the market?" |
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Answers from OPW Mall's designers (Click their names to see their embroidery designs):
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Michele of MM Embroidery says: Metallic thread varies greatly from brand to brand, and every machine is slightly different in how it handles specialty threads. Try out a number of brands to see if there is one that works better with your machine. Look for a thread that runs smoothly between your fingers in both directions, and is flexible and even instead of stiff and wiry. Second, always use a needle specifically designed for metallic threads. The eye of the needle is larger and smoother in this variety of needles. Another suggestion is to use an upright spool pin instead of a horizontal pin. This reduces twisting threads. A thread stand is ideal since it allows a longer length of thread between spool and machine, and this in turn eliminates some of the twisting. It can be helpful to reduce the speed of the machine as you did, but occassionally it does help to reduce the tension on the thread also. |
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Diana of V-Stitch says: I have really good results with Madeira Supertwist. |
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Helena of JHB Creations says: A bit of advice I can give the customer as far as metalic thread is concerned, apart from slowing your machine down, it is also important to use a needle for metalic threads. The eye of the needle is bigger, which allows less friction on the thread. |
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Diana of Red Moon Gardens says: i have found floriana to be better than other ones i have used ... with other brands i have had to sew real slow and hand feed the thread bypassing the machine tension ... with floriana i didnt have to do that |
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Elsa of Elsa's Designs says: From experience I have found Superior Threads the best metallic thread. It definitely helps to use a needle with a large eye with any metallic thread or the Glitter thread. |
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Annie of Embroidery Delight says: It will help to use Silicon Oil on the metalic thread but you need to adjust the speed of the machine much slower as well. Hope this is of any help. |
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Louise of Aljay Designs says: Metallic threads are a nightmare to work with. I have had fair success with Superior threads and Marathon. Use a metallic needle to stitch with. I have also had a measure of success by holding the thread cone in my hand, a distance away from the machine and gently tensioning it between my thumb and forefinger. When it starts to twist a bit too much I turn the cone around and let it wind off from the opposite end. |
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Stephanie of Designs 4 Africa says: I use a lot of metallic thread. The brand I use is Marathon. |
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Loronda of Heav'n Sent Creations says: I would suggest that you try Robinson Aton metallic thread. It is the only brand that I find does not shred and break. Also, have you changed the needle on your machine to a metallic one. They have a larger eye to allow the thread to pass through thus preventing some of the issues you are describing. |
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DeDe of Hallett House Designs says: I use the BFC brand metallics from BFC-Stash. I've rarely had any problems with them. I have also used the Coats & Clark metallics. In the bobbin, I use a regular embroidery thread (poly or rayon) that closely matches the color of the metallic thread. I use size 11 titanium-coated sharps, but not the ones marketed for metallic thread. I don't slow my machine down, but I will adjust the tension if needed. It's a lot of trial and error to find what works for each machine and thread brand, and making notes is important. |
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Beryl of Emerald Originals, says: Make sure she is using a needle made for metallics. Lower the upper tension. |
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Jenny of Always J Designs says: I use Marathon thread, but I do not allow the thread to twist as it comes off the spool. I use a thread stand, but feed off the spool sideways. I also embroider using an Inpira needle as it has a bigger eye. |
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Coleen of Finer Things Embroideries says: Floriani metallic thread is the only one I use, now. It's expensive but worth every penny. I've tried others and have issues, but have had no problems with the Floriani. Make sure you're using a 'metallic' needle. And yes, the stitch density also plays a role. I'd start with the different thread and needle. If those don't work, it's most likely the density. |
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Pat of Embroidery 31 says: For the metallic thread I use needles : metallic 90/14 or topstitch 90/14. |
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Adriana of Stitchbox Creations says: try a Spray thread oil. I use it when I stitch with metallics. Haven't had problems yet. Hope it helps. |
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Deanna of Angel Designs says: I use a metallic needle and a metal thread stand that is a distance from the machine so the thread can straighten out before getting to the machine. I put a piece of nylon hose over the thread pulling the thread through the nylon hose before going through the thread stand. I also slow my machine down to a low speed. I use Yenmet or Marathon thread. From your description of the bobbin – double check that you have put the bobbin in your bobbin case properly. Also check the tension discs that some of your metallic thread has not gotten locked in and causing the thread to shred. Hopefully this is helpful. Metallic thread takes a lot of patience and trial and error for each machine. |
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Riani of Enigma Embroidery says: Most metallic threads does that. Make sure that you use a thread net on the spool to make sure that the metallic thread does not run and also use a metallic needle. I use Marathon metallic threads and it is normally working fine with a net. |
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Zari of Zari's Embroidery Delights says: I use King Star Metallic thread without any problems whatsoever. And I use it with the Metallic needle. |
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Lyn of U&I Unique Embroidery says: Metallic thread is always a trail, I find if it is threaded into the machine from the side it helps, not from the top of the real, it twists and causes a knot and the gets messed up in the machine, if the customer could make a stand so that the cotton lies vertical and goes up to the stand and then into the machine it does help.. |
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Viv of Rose Cottage Embroidery says: I have had good results with Superior Thread. But I I let the threqd run thriuh my hand between the spool and my hand |
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Carol of Carmella's Korner says: I find superior metalics the best. They are flat and don't ravel so much. Also use a finer needle. You can get specialty needles strictly for metal thread. |
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The following is additional answers from from fellow hobbyists. |
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I think YLI is the best metallic thread I have ever used...it does not break easily and gives a beautiful sheen....just my favorite! Bobbie |
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I have a Brother 4000D machine for 7 years. I have had lots of problems with the tenison. For a long time it would sew no metallic thread at all no matter how many times took it to the shop. Now I have moved & use a different shop, it has been in for tenison & bobbin many times but will sew some metallic threads, Florani works the best for me. I also was advised to keep the thread in the freezer. I really agree the bobbin are must be kept very clean. Hope this helps someone. Barbara |
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I did not see that anyone tried running the thread through a "peanut" (use a regular hand sewing needle) to help remove the twist from the thread. i place the peanut before the tension disk. Diann |
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I understand that Floriani is by far the best, and if you put the spool upside down, they say that it will never break.....Jane |
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My experince with metallic thread is:
1. Make sure the thread comes off the spool the way it went on...not over the top as on a thread stand. It kinks that way. Use a thread stand designed for metallic thread. This is probably the most important thing. The thread stands from Superior thread are designed to do this as well as using it for thread in the conventional way.
2. Use a metallic needle...size 90 is best.
3. Slow the machine down.
4. Do not use any kind of spray or oil on the thread other than Tri-flo (available at bicycle shops). Use only a drop or two. Others will mess up your tension disks and/or your machine. Andrea |
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All of the suggestions are correct no matter what brand you used. There is only one thing missing which totally surprised me. I have used metallic threads for years with no issues since I quit using the first thread through. It helps to reduce the stress on your metallic thread. I do not have thread snaps or any jamming. Do make sure to slow down the speed of your machine as the heat from going through the needle will cause it to snap. Hope this helps and you'll be a happy with the end result. Maxine |
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STOP! NO! NO! NO canned air. If you have a drop-in bobbin case, this is a absolute no-no! Yes, your case looks good, but, that lint builds up inside your machine and will eventually jam it up. I know because my machine stopped working. I took it to the shop and the dealer showed me all the lint he pulled out my machine. The lint doesn’t disappear, it builds up on and around working parts. I now have a micro vacuum attachment kit that I use to clean my bobbin areas on my sewing machines and my keyboards on the computer and laptop. Please don’t use canned air!! Twitty |
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I just finished using metallic threads and it is important to use a cotton bobbin and make sure your thread is in a vertical position. Hope this helps. Pineday |
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Just reading all the solutions for the metallic threads. To stop the twisting use a sewing first up and thread it through that packing foam, it smells like popcorn. So as it passes through the foam it can't twist. In Australia I bought Soft Light it is sold by a Queensland company called Echidna Embroidery. It says on packaging made in China from Japanese Metallic Film. It's a 40wt. I have a Janome it loves Marathon. Kaye |
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I have used from very cheap to very expensive metallic thread and had very few problems with any of them. The expensive ones like Robison Anton give no trouble at all and the cheaper ones, I find, can be less troublesome if you move the thread as far away from the machine as possible. I usually drop my thread guide on the floor beside me. This allows the thread to straighten out somewhat before going through the thread race. It is better to buy cross wound threads on larger cones rather than the tiny reels as the metallic thread is too tightly curled when coming off a smaller diameter. Christine |
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Question 2-Sticky Backed Stabilizer submitted by Dee
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Question submitted by Dee regarding Sticky Backed Stabilizer: I have trouble using sticky backed stabilizer [Press and Tear]. Everything starts out fine then my thread start to shred and break. The needle gums up. To remove it I use a Q tip with nail polish remover. When I stitch the same with different type of stabilizer (not sticky backed), the design stitches out with no problems. I like the convenience of sticky backed stabilizer and remove all the backing first before adhering it to the inside hoop. I trim away the excess from around the hoop before removing the backing and insertingthe stabilizer into the outside hoop. To me this is an easier method to get the stabilizer even instead of trying to push the heavy paper backing into the hoop. The corners are never smooth.
There seems be too much "sticky" on my stabilizer. What am I doing wrong? It held my 14" x 19" corduroy-like material place mats very well as I stitched a 5 x 7 design. But the thread breaking and shredding was very very annoying and extremely time consuming trying to finish stitching the design. Could you please provide a better solution, that gives better results? |
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Answers from OPW Mall's designers (Click their names to see their embroidery designs):
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Irene of Enchanting Designs says: Try using iron-on batting which you can iron onto the back of the fabric that you are going to embroider. This gives a firm stable fabric to embroider on as well as batting already included . This does not cause any sticky problems with the needle. If you have a very dense design you could float a piece of tear-away (with no glue) - just larger than the size of the embroidery under the hoop. This works very well. |
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Alida of Allstitch says: I do not use the sticky back stabilizer just for this reason. I prefer to use a cutaway stabilizer, only use a tear away with thin materials. I hoop my material and stabilizer together. If I do a project where I want to do accurate placements, I will hoop the stabilizer, spray a little temporary glue (I use Madeira MSA 1100), position the material on top and stitch all together with a basting line around the hoop. Do the embroidery design as wished.
This temporary spray can also cause a bit of build up on the needle if used continuously, but it cleans off easily and I do not find it a problem. |
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Zari of Zari's Embroidery Treasures says: I have never had to try this – but I use it for most sticky issues!!! Firstly I would make sure you have a new needle, and that you have threaded your machine correctly and that all pieces of thread are removed from underneath your machine in the bobbin area and that there is nothing lodged in the tension discs. I would dip a q tip {I think that is what you call them over there} in some Eucalyptus oil and rub it on your needle. I would not put an over amount on there – as you need to remember it is an oil, but a very minimal amount may work. |
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Adriana of Stitchbox Creations says: Did some research on the internet and here is what I found. Peel and Stick stabilizers can wreak havoc on your machine. When sewing, as the thread is drawn back up on each stitch, the sticky stuff can build up on your needle and even get into your machine and gunk up the works. Be sure to change your needle often when using sticky stabilizers to reduce potential build-up. I also read that when the stabilizer is warm/hot it gets more sticky. So maybe try putting it in the freezer before stitching it out. |
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Vivienn of Viv-A-Lee Embroidery says: Personally I would not use that stick and tear EVER. That sticky gluey stuff coats the needle but it also leaves a certain amount of that stickiness on the bobbin area and all those very tiny moveable parts in the bobbin area. This will eventually clog your machine and even the thread tract. It will cost a lot of professional help to unclog the machine, but may also cause irreparable damage to some parts, which are themselves very expensive. Do yourself a favour and use the normal stitch and tear. Open your hoop wide enough to allow the stitch and tear plus the fabric to be accommodated. Alternatively, you can use soluble stabilizer on top of your embroidery and pin in place on the fabric on the outside of the hoop, or simply slip it under the fabric before stitching. You then rinse in hot water . Not as good but better. Then there is the metallic hoop 5x7 which is made by Husqvarna for their machines, and you only use magnets with this hoop. So everything is placed on top of the hoop followed by the magnets. I suppose that other manufacturers also make metallic hoops. Hope this helps you to decide. |
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Diana of Red Moon Gardens says: When i got my first embroidery machine i bought a so-called quality can of adhesive spray ... i had all the problems that you listed in your question ... messy, messy, messy ... now what i do is hoop the stabilizer and straight pin the fabric on top of that and the work always comes out good ... so for me whether it is a spray or an adhesive stabilizer i will not jeopardize my machine for either. |
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Patricia of Embroidery Connections says: There are different types of sticky self -adhesive stabilizers. Depending of the quality, some leave a small to an excessive residues of gum.
First, clean thoroughly your embroidery machine, including the bobbin case. Gum can also get accumulated inside the machine. Start with a fresh new needle.
Second, change to a different make of sticky stabilizer.
Third, try a different approach. Hoop two layers of a medium tear away stabilizer. Spray it with temporary adhesive. Place the fabric you want to embroider over it. Secure it with pins or if you have a digitizing software, digitize the shape of your hoop with a stitch length of 5mm. The holding stitching is open making it easy to remove it at the end. |
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Bonnie of Sew Inspired By Bonnie says: There are other sticky-backed stabilizers that do not gum up your needles. I would try another company such as Floriani or OESD. If you want to try and use up the roll of sticky stabilizer that you have, then I’d suggest using Silicone spray over the top. Hoop as you normally would and then lightly spray the top of your fabric with Silicone spray. This is a trick I learned from my dealer when I was having thread gumming/shredding issues from the glue used to attach sequins to sequined fabric. Silicone spray is safe to use around your machines and doesn’t harm your fabrics. If your dealer doesn’t carry Silicone spray, ask them if they can order it for you. It’s really handy to have in the sewing room for these types of issues. |
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Vivian of Rose Cottage Embroidery says: I would first try another brand of sticky stabilizer. I have used several kinds and there are some that will gum up like that. I do not know if they still sell teflon coated machine needles but I know they use to. |
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Coleen of Finer Things Embroideries says: I'm thinking it's the stabilizer. Try a different brand. I use Floriani's sticky stuff without problems. I've used it with two different machines and it performs very well with both. While trying different stabilizers can be a pain and expensive, it can be well worth the effort. |
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Carol of Carmella's Korner says: I have never had a problem with the sticky stabilizer but I only use the one I get from Nancy's Notions, SBS5. I order the sticky back tear away. I also use a 90/14 needle if that makes any difference. I love the stabilizer. I have never had it gum up my needles nor does my thread ever shred. I hoop my fabric and then flip my hoop upside down and just put the stabilizer on the back of the fabric in the area I will be stitching on. Hope this helps. |
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Kara of Kreations By Kara says: Although the ease of using a sticky back stabilizer is enticing, it can create more problems then are sometimes worth dealing with. There are some easy and simple solutions to the problems caused by adapting a different method. The first alternative is to use a regular weight tear-away in your hoop. Hoop it by itself in the hoop, no forcing is necessary. Working on a flat surface,place the outside ring of your hoop on the table , lay a piece of your stabilizer which you have cut 3" bigger around then your hoop. Loosen the bottom hoop ring so it is about 3 widths of the stabilizer wider then the top hoop. Set the hoop over the stabilizer and push down equally on both ends to insert your top hoop ring into the lower hoop ring. You should not force it but it should be a little snug. Once inserted, the stabilizer should be smooth. Without lifting the hoop, tighten the outer hoop around the inner one. The key here is to keep it flat so it does not loosen. I find it easier to scootch the hoop to the edge of the table, so I can access the tightening screw better without lifting the hoop. Once you have the stabilizer in the hoop you need to use a spray adhesive such as Dritz, 505, Aleene's or June Taylor. Follow the directions given on the spray to apply. Then simply lay your fabric over and smooth down so no wrinkles are there. This is very easy to do and will not gum up your needles. You don't fight with the sticky before, during or after your hooping and you don't damage the fabric or stitched design, no cleaning needles. When you tear-away the stabilizer do it by pulling away from the embroidery and be careful, do not "rip". If you need additional support all you have to do is cut a piece of the same tear-away the same size as your hoop and slide it under the hoop and on top of the needle plate to add extra support without adding any bulk. No fighting with hoops trying to get it smooth. This is called a "floater", once the first stitch is taken the additional support piece "floats " along under neath while the design is stitching. The nice thing about this method is that it works with wash-away stabilizers, cut away, tear away and batting. With batting lay a piece of batting on top of your "floater" and slip under your hoop. It too will "float" right along. You can choose whatever stabilizer you want to insert into the hoop so it is not limited to the tear-away. Another advantage to this method is you can easily position embroidery without hooping and re-hooping trying to get it just right. |
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Diana of V-Stitch says: I like a product made by Gunold called Filmoplast sticky paper backing. I hoop the stabilizer with the paper backing on it. Once I have it in the hoop I score the paper and peel it away. The paper backing is very light weight so I find it easy to hoop before taking the paper off. |
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Loronda of Heav'n Sent Creations says: First of all I would suggest you try different brands of sticky stabilizer. Some are less sticky than others thus leave less residue on your needle. Also using a Teflon needle will decrease the sticky build up. I would caution that you use sticky only for those hard to stabilize projects that truly need that type of stabilizer.
Also, when you are using stick stabilizer you can avoid the build up on your hoop by hooping the stabilizer with the paper still on and then trimming away only the area you need to stick your fabric too. You can then cut that area out and stick another piece of sticky just to that area and never have to rehoop. |
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Deanna of Angel Designs says: I like using Peel N Stick Tear Away from Marathon thread Co. I have found I have much less problem with thread shredding with this product than some others I have used. I also use Sewer’s Aid on my thread. It is a lubricate that I run down the thread spool on two sides before sewing. The lubricate helps in avoiding the buildup of sticky gum from the stabilizer. |
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Tammie of Adorable Embroidery Designs says: I put a few drops of sewing machine oil on a Qtip and rub it on the needles every few minutes. It is tedious, but it works. I have not had it stain the fabric. I do this when I use sticky back stabilizer and metallic thread both. |
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Beryl of Emerald Originals says: For the past 10 or more years I have only used sticky paper for hooping my embroidery.
#1 please don't use a sticky paper if it is sticking to your needle, the sticky substance will work up into your machine and cause havoc with collecting dirt out of the air as well as dander from the thread. There are many types of sticky stabilizer and many machines that don't like any of it.
My babylock single thread hated sticky stabilizer and it spent a lot of time in getting cleaned.
My 6 thread babylock works fine with it but I have also found that I'm picky of which ones I use.
What you need to look for on the stabilizer package is NEEDLE FRIENDLY!
I really like most of the sticky stabilizer from American embroidery supply
http://www.americanembrsuplly.com and click on the adhesives page.
the press and tear is great,
Press & Tear is a needle friendly pressure sensitive adhesive tearaway stabilizer. It allows you to embroider those hard to hoop items with rarely any residue on your needles. Perfect for those difficult jobs like: CD Cases, Cooler tops, heavy towels or blankets, collars and cuffs, socks, and heavy jackets or anything that is difficult to hoop.
as well as the eco stick for full hoopings
It is used in "hoopless" or clamp type embroidery applications for hard to hoop items such as heavy towels, CD cases, backpacks, cuffs, collars, socks etc.
With Eco Stick embroidery in every area is possible.
It is used for fabrics that can be marred by the hooping process to avoid hoop "ring burn" like velvet, suede, ultra suede, some leathers , satins. and other delicate fabrics.
Eco Stick utilizes the latest and the most needle friendly adhesive available. It will avoid gummy build up and residue on needles and hoops which can lead to excessive thread breaks.
For any type of stretch fabric I use their fusible no show mesh as it holds the fabric in place and keeps the outline around the pattern. I also use their water soluble for lace, (which is the only think I actually hoop using both hoops) as well as the cloud cover for any embroidered clothing that will touch the skin. |
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